The charming unknown town of Uzes in the South of France, is a gastronomic dream.
Wicker basket at hand and panama hat on, love the tiny pathways of Uzés that lead you to 17th century medieval houses with ornate iron balustrades dating back to the rich textile era. Enjoy the local buzz in the salon-like pastry bars, much like in Paris, where people gather over marmalade pastries and black coffee.
Hanna Kristiina Amy take us along a beautiful journey to the town of Uzes in France for a stroll along markets, streets and communities to experience what small town living is all about. And the food is simply divine.From Hanna,
Just west of Provence lies a storybook town called Uzés, that was originally an ‘oppidum,’ a fortified town. Dating back to the 2nd century BC, it was the area of an ancient settlement and in the 13th century it became an important trading center in the South primarily exporting linen, licorice and silk. It grew prosperous by the 16th century as a center for textiles and the town had numerous lucrative silk factories. Still today, the town preserved many of the old merchant houses that are protected sightings. Moreover, in the 16th century, King Charles IX was ranked as the first Duke of France, meaning that the first Duke of Uzés became the second most important person in France. There is still a duke of Uzés today and when he is in residence, the flag is raised. For a piece of history, visit the Duke’s Castle or the Duché, a château that belonged to the House of Crussol, who were the dukes of Uzès for over 1000 years until the French Revolution. Uzés lies in the Occitanie region, in the Gard area, making it a great base for visiting towns in Provence. Uzés is filled with pastel shutters, cobbled pathways and beautiful limestone facades, much like in Provence, yet Uzés is more popular with locals than tourists giving it that unique charm. In 1965, Uzés was classified as a city of Art and History by the minister of culture giving it a new dimension of respect. This title brought the place a wide range of upscale restaurants, and today hidden Uzes is known for its gastronomic ambiance.The town revolves around the main square ‘place aux Herbes’ that spills with restaurants and little boutiques all beautifully surrounded by oversized 100 year-old trees. The soothing sound of the fountain in the centre not only is tranquil for the eye but it seems to be a spot where families, children all gather before they sit down for a meal.The streets are calm in the morning and precious to photograph, blue shutters thrust open after a night of being fastened and the smell of coffee invites us to a cafe. Despite the warmth during the day, we see a few leaves making their way down to the ground embracing the first signs of fall. Pumpkins, porcini and figs are in season that are embraced in menus. Gingerbread-like doors open up to artisan boutiques, galleries and bakeries are ready to serve croque monsieur, a hot sandwich made from ham and cheese.Not only is Uzes known to be a foodie town, but also for its splendid local farmers markets that exist on Wednesday morning and Saturday all day. During market day, people gather from neighboring towns to make a day event out of it and shop for all things fresh and local. Since Uzés is less crowded with tourists, most vendors do not speak English, but you manage just fine with some hand gestures and a little bit of creativity. I loved the fact that you could only hear the French language giving the town that authentic feeling. I personally feel that many famous towns like Gordes, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Roussillon over capacitate with busloads of tourists (the coastline even worse) taking away from the beauty of it all. ‘Taste your way through the venues as this is what Provence life is all about.’
According to Conde Nast Traveler, a local Uzétien said,” Here, inland and on the unfashionable side of the Rhône, there’s something more authentic than you’ll find on the coast. Uzès is a town where people live and work, where the market is for locals – not just for summer tourists.” This certainly felt true after visiting a flock of “the most beautiful towns in Provence”, there is something special about Uzés, especially on market day. If you are a lover of cheese and all things lavender, market day is the place for you. The best time to visit Uzes is Saturday morning, when the town comes alive with stall holders selling fresh local produce including truffles, herbs, soups, textile, olive oil and handmade preserves. Taste your way through the venues as this is what Provence life is all about.We sit in the corner of place Dampmartin and rue pélisserie in a cozy quintessential cafe called chez cerise fulfilling our morning caffeine dose taking in the hassle of the busy Saturday morning. Lured in by the antique pottery, cast iron chairs and charming owner, we started our day bright and early sipping on cappuccino and nibbling over flakey croissants. Vendors set their stalls in the main square of place aux Herbes, that spread across the little streets. You will find all things from honey, books to sweets. There are sections for cheese, seafood, meat, vegetables and baked goods that locals come to indulge. You smell the baked chicken as it turns on the roastery with the juices dripping on crispy potatoes and spicy cold cuts that come from nearby regions. An added bonus is that, on Sunday the town parking lot holds an antique/flea market while the town square turns into a flower market.We strolled down the people-filled stalls, admired the pastel coloured houses adorned with spilling vines, fascinated with the smells, colours and beautiful people. We watched locals stand against corners eating dozens of oysters off paper plates, sampled on some divine strong cheese and made our way through the town eyeing all the little goodies. Shop for goods to take back home, I couldn’t resist all the handmade soaps, linen towels and lavender fragrances. I even ate a lavender ice-cream! Stop for an espresso or pale rosé watching the hassle take over the town. As the evening fades so does the whiff from the camembert stand and it becomes suddenly silent, leaving behind the ice from the fishmongers.As it gets darker, the town settles down, while restaurants prepare for the upcoming dinner service and the majestic trees of the square light up with twinkle lights. It feels romantic and cozy, people sitting on restaurant terraces that drape the square giving your palette a real treat. Sample on the creamiest foie gras, the juiciest escargot, boeuf tartare and stews that have cooked overnight, that literally melt in your mouth. From full bodied deep red wines to airy light pale rosés, my husband and I both remember Uzes through the food we ate. From Michelin star restaurants to rustic bistros, this place will feed your taste buds to its full potential. French people really appreciate what they eat and it shows through the food. The mentality here is more relaxed than in the coastline and the atmosphere is understatedly chic, untainted with tourism, that I imagine the locals want to hold on to.Whether you are looking for art or history in your travels or a vibrant authentic town with divine cuisine, Uzés is the place for you. It is the perfect place to understand the “provence way of life” from a local view, that logistically makes a great base for visiting other nearby towns. Here you experience weekend markets the way they were designed to and therefore hidden charms, like Uzés most often leave the greatest imprint on your soul.Doesn’t Uzes in the south of France seem like the perfect place to travel to? We can see ourselves wandering all the streets and exploring these markets all day long. And the food seems absolutely divine. The prefect way to explore a place via its food culture.
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