As part of Season 03 of CulturallyOurs which showcases Lifestyle and People, we are thrilled to share letters from locals all around the world as they take us along a virtual journey of their city, village or hometown. This is a way for us to get to know one another on a personal level without any ‘must see‘ lists or ‘Top 10‘ activities. Getting a local’s point of view is a fantastic way to get a glimpse into the lives of the people of a place, city or country.
Today we travel to Mumbai, India. Our friend Shreya Sen, a professional photographer, shares a glimpse of her beautiful city, its history and her favorite places around town in our local’s point of view series.
From Shreya,
“Mumbai is the sweet, sweaty smell of hope, which is the opposite of hate; and it’s the sour, stifled smell of greed, which is the opposite of love. It’s the smell of Gods, demons, empires, and civilizations in resurrection and decay. It smells of heartbreak, and the struggle to live, and of the crucial failures and love that produces courage. It smells of ten thousand restaurants, five thousand temples, shrines, churches and mosques, and of hunderd bazaar devoted exclusively to perfume, spices, incense, and freshly cut flowers. That smell, above all things – is that what welcomes me and tells me that I have come home.” – Gregory Roberts, from the book Shantaram.
A fun fact to displace your senses right away, Bombay Duck is not a duck, it is actually a fish, often resembling a lizard fish. As you pass by certain fishing areas in Mumbai, you see this fish let out to dry with its rather strong, overpowering smell. You scringe your nose and shudder a bit, completely taken aback by its seeming ugliness and shock to your senses. Then you give it a chance, give it some time as it reaches it’s destiny. Watch as a local woman or the cook at a restaurant batter fries it. You sink your teeth into this crispy, delicate, almost squishy, unusual texture and you realise it is quite a delicacy and nothing like any other fish you’ve ever had anywhere in the world. Completed with a home made meal of rice and (dal) lentils that you dig in with your hands, you suddenly consider this could be one of your favourite comfort meals.
A rather polarizing experience, from your first encounter with this fish. And there it begins, this journey of a love and hate relationship with this unusual creature. I reside in the city of Mumbai and have this love and hate relationship with my own city.
If I had to describe my city, it would be this space where contradictions exist very comfortably at a very close proximity. Often such extreme polarities, that it can shock and overwhelm someone, mostly when the city hits them for the first time. On a recent podcast of one of my favourite photographers, as he spoke about his experience in mumbai, the culture shock seeing the disparity between the rich and poor he mentions made him break down. I almost felt a bit sad listening to this constant slumdog narrative of Mumbai. Beyond the poverty on the streets, the slums and the heart breaking sight of children begging at the stop lights that can make us question our own privileged lives, this is not the only narrative of this city. There are also more than a million other inspiring stories in every other corner that will fill you with hope and awe. So to start you off with this complex city, I urge you to give it time and be open, before you come to any conclusions.
I exist as a part of the urban section of the society in Mumbai, mostly educated here, had the fortune of further studying in different parts of the world and then coming back home. I mostly spend my time in South Mumbai from Colaba to Dadar. If I had to take you around. I would love to introduce you and get you comfortable with this unique culture of this city, which is this duality.
Off-the-tourist track places in Mumbai
You have to wake up early in the morning and head straight to see the original residents of this bay city. The Koli fisherwomen at Sassoon Dock. From 5 am in the morning as the fishermen load their fresh catch onto the docks, these feisty lot of women all dressed in their colorful sarees, are all set to make their sales. Loading their cane baskets on their head, they walk past you in pure determination, and you sense they are ready to sell it all and you better be swift to buy their fresh stock or get out of their way. You get acquainted with the constant Mantra of Mumbai, ‘Time is money.’
As you get to the other side, you see chai (tea not chai-tea) stands, that are present in several parts of the city, all set to serve this elixir that this running city drinks at several points in the day. Its sweet and delicious and nothing like any chai-latte you would ever have.
Mumbai’s must-not-miss places to visit
Your next stop in the morning before you head for breakfast should be a quick walk from Colaba to get an interrupted photograph of the Gateway of India, where you also get to also see the beautiful magnificent Taj Mahal Hotel. At that time of the morning, there is a certain lull right before the storm of the tourist crowd begins, the boats are anchored, the pigeons flock in thousands circling in synchronised harmony, the quiet heroes feeding the strays and birds as the camera men set up their mini printers waiting for the tourists to pour in for their quinnessential tourist photo stating, they have arrived at the Gates of Mumbai.
Next stop, Marine Drive, the queen’s necklace in the mornings is extremely interesting. It would probably be like Central Park in New York. The uncles in white shorts all part of a walking group discussing the stock market and what might rise and fall, the laughing clubs, the marathon runners, the quiet meditators by the sea, lovers who do not find a place for love all lined up discreetly under an umbrella at times stealing kisses and the heartbroken sitting quietly looking for answers, dogs of all sizes, the strays unfazed, men selling quick shots of aloe vera from the back of their car, a ton taking selfies, a few napping and a few getting pumped to start their day. It is one of my favourite spots in the city, to take a moment by the sea and watch the tide hitting the tetrapods at different forces, to watch sunrises and beautiful sunsets and have endless conversations with friends. You will realise that the sea in mumbai pulls people from all walks of life and holds meaning not just in the morning but throughout the day.
Food you must try in Mumbai
Food is a way I usually connect to any city and ofcourse my city. I have days I go hunting experimenting new restaurants and most days I crave certain iconic favourites. Mumbai has one of the most diverse food selections and restaurant available at all times of the day. Whether you need a quick bun maska and chai right after your morning walk or a scrumptious roll post a night out dancing. It is an amalgamation of local delicacies as well as food from diverse communities, migrants who moved to mumbai and brought along with them their own food and flavours and over time has become a central part of the food culture in Mumbai.
Set out to have a traditional breakfast at my favourite spots in the city called Madras Cafe. A third generation owned iconic place, in an area called Dadar. Their Mysore butter Dosas (crispy crepe served with a delicious lentil and coconut chutney) Vadas in Rasam and Idlis and a sweet dish called Pineapple sheera are their most popular dishes on the menu. Their South indian filter coffee (kaapi), a hot frothy, milky, sweet coffee. is tossed expertly from steel glass to another to cool it. If you feel like something more trendy and modern there are several quaint new age cafes in Kalaghoda serving Vegan, Keto, paleo, for those looking to try something healthier. My favourites here are The Pantry and Kalaghoda Cafe where you get the most delicious sandwiches, Naga chilly omelette and Avocado burrata toast and definitely some great coffee.
An interesting dish that holds stories about Mumbai which is served at my favourite restaurant called The Bombay Canteen is the Eggs Kejriwal. An oozing sunnyside egg with cheese, placed on a toast over a bed of green chilly paste. This dish was first started in several of Mumbai’s aristocratic Clubs that was dedicated to one Mr. Kejriwal who ordered his eggs in a specific manner which soon became popular and permanent part on their menus. I love this story as one dish inspired by one person, has made it’s out of the clubs and into this modern restaurant. Bombay Canteen hat has been making its waves in Mumbai and India for creating very unique menus inspired by mumbai, local produce and vegetables from across remote parts of maharashtra and India and basically making indian vegetarian dishes sexy. You are sure to find finger licking, non pretentious, wholesome meals with a ton of flavour, innovation and heart here. Do try their fabulous cocktails including the iconic ‘Banta Soda’. Other innovative dishes from their menu I would recommend incase you head there for lunch or dinner, would include pulled pork theplas (inspired by a gujarati snack), their Misal sandwiches, (inspired by a typical potato bun, local Maharashtrian Snack) their gulab nut stepped in rum (a modern gulab jamun), Chettinand Prawns and if they you are adventurous their Bheja Fry (lamb brain fry, a muglain influence inspired by mumbai’s late night feasts).
A couple of other iconic places to add to your list for lunch or dinner should be Trishna at Kalaghoda for their Crab in butter garlic sauce and deep fried kolivada prawns.
Brittania in Ballard estate, a family run restaurant with cute Parsi uncles (who you must have a conversation with), preserving their decor in the same manner for decades, serving their secret family iranian and parsi recipes including the Berry Pulao, Dhansak (meat made in a dal/lentil curry) and a Patra fish served in a beautiful banana leaf (steamed fish flavoured in a green chutney). Wash it down with their super tangy classic Parsi drink, Rasberrry Soda (usually served in Parsi weddings and celebrations). If you would like to end it on a sweeter note, do not miss out on their caramel custard, it is absolutely my favourite.
Another really unique food experience I would recommend also a part of a unique community in Mumbai is The Bohri Kitchen. There is a smaller branch in a restaurant called the Flea Bazaar but their real culinary experience is served in their home where you get to try a traditional Bohri Muslim fixed menu carefully put together with various appetizers, delicious main courses and their unique tradition of alternating a sweet and savoury dish. You share a meal with strangers in a home, served in a communal thaal, served with complete warmth and soul, the perfect version of indian hospitality which is an experience on its own. They serve a vegetarian option too but it is no doubt a dream meal for a carnivore, though please note followed by a month long food coma.
Iconic Mumbai sights
After filling your stomachs well, you would need to walk and catch up on some sightseeing. One of my favourite architectural buildings, that not many know about that I would definitely recommend is taking the heritage tour inside CST station (VT station) and Bhau Daiji Museum in Byculla .The heritage walk in CST is open from 2-5pm on weekdays. This magnanimous colonial building with its gothic architecture, intricate gargoyles and peacock carvings and arcs, rich in history, is as beautiful on the inside as from the outside. The walk through their railway museum and the access to their ‘first class restricted room’ that houses vintage Indian railways record books really takes you back to the past of Indian railways from the colonial times.
Also known for its secular culture,you would notice there are several beautiful temples, mosques, fire temples, churches that are there bang in the centre of the action and also in the middle of the sea. A unique religious building which often gets missed out is the Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue in Kalaghoda. It is beautiful to see and experience this pocket of Jewish culture in mumbai, a prior turquoise building with stained glass windows which was recently restored to its original glory. After the 2008 terrorist attacks in Mumbai in 2008, you always see a police vehicle parked outside. The festivals in Mumbai are celebrated together regardless of one’s religion or background. From Diwali to Holi, Eid, Christmas and Ganesh Chaturthi being one of the biggest festivals. If you happen to come to mumbai in the monsoon months of July/ August , you also might have the opportunity of going to visit the workshops where the Ganpatis are being created for this festival. Made from plaster of paris or offlate ecofriendly material like clay, it is indeed an awe inspiring experience to see the workmanship of the artisans in India as they painstaking devotion to create these massive Ganpatis while standing on these wooden stilts, that are at times 5 storey high and the smaller ones that people celebrate in their homes. Each Ganpati is meticulously hand painted by these artists and brought to life.
As you walk around the Fort area, Flora Fountain, Churchgate and bits of Marine Drive you would notice several of the Art Deco styled buildings some built as long back as 1930s. Kalaghoda is a great area if you are an art connoisseur. There are several museums which are easily listed online. Some of the museums include MGMA, Prince of Wales Museum (now called Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya) and Jehangir Art Gallery. Apart from these also do check out an exhibit space that is secretly nestled near Gateway of India called Tarq which often displays modern Indian artists and photographers and also works of Indian Diaspora.
As you make your way to explore further parts of the city, you’ll see the running city pass you by in a blur, the trains are the heartlines of Mumbai (and it takes quite an adventurous heart to leap on it and find your place in the crowd), several black and yellow taxis passing by, people hanging off BEST buses and rickshaws once you cross Bandra. If you venture little more to Lower parel/ worli you see the high rise buildings and the modern malls and movie halls, an area that is slowly claiming itself to be the ‘new centre’ of Mumbai with its vast options of restaurants, bars frequented by the urban section and upcoming residencies. In close proximity of these burgeoning buildings if you go looking, you will find the Worli Koli village. The Sea Link by its side, the crashing waves, a random fort, fishermen untangling their nets, the youth digging into their smartphones dreaming of a different world. You see mosaics of the old and new, overhear stories of strong beliefs of superstitions of nearby spirits and watch practical daily routines make their way, to keep surviving. A resilient almost forgotten community trying to survive urban development.
If you want to head for a quick snack at this point and are willing to be adventurous, street food would be the answer. Vada Pau, is Mumbai’s favourite street food. The one I would recommend is served near Dadar west, a famous street corner stall called Ashoke Vada Pau. carefully wrapped in a newspaper, served with crunchy bits and a crispy green chilly, and deep fried well spiced potato patty between buns, it is the perfect snack to fill you that time of the day. Other street foods also include pani puri, sev puri, chutney sandwich and Pau Bhaji. You might have to be a little more discerning and check the hygiene and water of the stall or restaurant while trying any of these treats. There are a couple I tend to frequent when I feel like being a little indulgent, they are Elco market in Bandra , Kailesh Parbat in Colaba and Amar restaurant in Tardeo.
You can also end your evening, watching the sunset at Chowpatty beach followed by a play at NCPA or head to a bar in Kamla Mills, settle in for a live music performance in Bandra or a stand up comedy show.
Though I can endlessly go on and share places in my city, these are a few of my favourite experiences here. Where the old and new exists in the space, the rich and poor, the traditional and the modern, the humidity and the cool breeze of the ocean, the high rises and the slums, the swanky restaurants doing insanely innovative dishes and the street food that relentlessly cooks their signature soulfood and fills the hearts and stomachs of everyone. If you make an effort and speak to the locals here, you hear several inspiring stories of people coming into the city with nothing but pennies or a family of 6 living in tiny rooms. But they also come with the hope of fulfilling their dreams to change their lives around, not just for themselves, for their families and children. There are also people from the urban population, who have studied abroad and are all coming back home, blending their knowledge from the west to create something totally new that is inspired by their own city and works for their city. There has been a steady rise of almost a renaissance movement in the fields of art, design, interiors, photography of a distinct voice that is slowly integrating the old and the new, the traditional and the modern in Mumbai. It is phenomenal to see and an exciting time to be a part of.
I wouldn’t want to completely romanticize my city at the same time. There is a pace that is relentless and at times unforgiving. Mostly if you want to stop and catch your breadth or grieve, existence of poverty and corruption, traffic seems endless and chaotic, rising expenses, work life balance often only left to weekends, potholes that can break your car, an infrastructure that is often failing its people. This week itself as I write this article the incessant rains, has resulted in floods has taken the lives of many and brought the city to a stand still. It will always be a work in progress.
However, if you give this city a chance and observe it long enough, you will feel a spirit in the people, that does not stop, that pushes through it all. If you fall or get lost there will be several people to help you out, gather up your things, show you kindness in more ways than you can imagine. Inspiring stories of a fisherwomen who worked earnestly day in and out and educated their son, who further succeeded to get a reputed job in the States and made her mom proud by taking her there. Or the man who did not have enough to feed himself but every day fed over 40 stray dogs in his area. In that crunched up space between high rises and slums the stories all coexist, making place for more. There are stories of people who came to Mumbai with nothing in their pockets and became Billionaires and movie stars in Bollywood. If you are willing to work and be more this city expands and lets you expand your dreams.
To conclude, it is a city of migrants and in this disturbing international ‘anti migration’ and Brexit narrative that is going on today, it is the personification of how migrations are important and often shape the culture, food, economy and the spirit of a city and a country. It gives people a second chance and every individual deserves the chance to be who they want to be. To succeed and make a difference.
This is my city. This is my home. It has shaped me to dream and always be more and do more and though it might shock you at first. I hope you stay longer or come again, give it a chance. With time you will realise when you give in, this city will embed itself deeply like no other.
Shreya, thank you so much for taking us along a virtual journey through your city. Mumbai is so alive, colorful and full of hopes and dreams of its people and your images and words give us such insight into this vibrant city. We cannot wait to try out all these foods and explore all these places when we visit.
{Words and images by Shreya Sen; Website: Shreya Sen Photography ; Instagram: @shreyasenphotography }
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