One of the best ways to really get to know a place, people or community is to experiencing the local culture through traditions and customs. You get insight into the lives and lifestyle of the people and this leads to a better understanding and appreciation of the world around us. South America is a beautiful mosiac of cultures and customs somehow connected and entwined by the thread of geographical commonality. As Heather Markel of The Inspired Nomads shares with us, they are similar yet different. She got to experience Argentina and Argentinian culture first hand through Yerba Mate and shares her insight with us.
From Heather,
I’ve been traveling the world full time for the past 18 months which means I’ve experienced the intricate layers of cultures, instead of the usual surface experiences. I speak with locals, get to know them, and learn what matters to them.
I don’t think you can truly know a place without trying the local traditions. I’ve eaten strange foods (the only one I regret is guinea pig), I’ve met with shamans, I’ve poured wine onto the earth to honor Pachamama (mother earth), I’ve cooked with local farmers. But the tradition that really spoke to my heart is drinking yerba mate. Within this tradition is the heart of the Argentinian culture, and, much of South America.
I landed in El Calafate, Argentina, and found a café to get some food. Since it was cold, I ordered a cup of yerba mate, thinking it was the tea that I’ve seen in New York City. I was given a thermos of warm water, a wooden cup filled to the top with herbs, and a metal straw. After a brief tutorial and a few sips, I was hooked.
If you’re not familiar with it, “yerba” refers to the herb and “mate” refers to the cup you drink it from. An enthusiast will tell you that the best mate cups are made with pumpkin gourd, “calabazza” or wood, both of which enhance the flavor of the yerba. A short version of its history is that yerba mate was discovered by the Guarani natives in the 16thcentury who used it as medicine and as a drink. The natives buried their dead near yerba mate plants and believed the cultivated leaves held the spirit of those that passed. The Spanish conquistadores learned to drink yerba mate from the natives, domesticated the plants and grew them for export. Supposedly, the plant has many healing properties, among which are combatting cholesterol (which must explain how Argentinians can eat so much meat and live past 20) and possibly warding off the onset of Parkinson’s disease.
It’s common to see people walking around everywhere in Argentina with their thermos and mate set, often in a carrying case – always on the ready to prepare it. This is because the true purpose of yerba mate is sharing conversation. I ventured into a store in the small town of Caviahue while waiting for a friend to find us accommodation. Our bags were across the street, but it was freezing outside. The shop owner let me stay warm while I waited. She was drinking a mate, and I accepted her offer to share it. Two strangers sharing the same straw. I learned about her family, met her son, got recommendations on what to do in the area, and when her husband arrived, he gave my friend and me a lift to our hostel.
While on a boat tour in Peru, I saw a group of travelers with a thermos and mate cup. Sure enough, they were from Argentina and we shared their mate. I ran into them a week later in Lima, and even though it was just for a moment, they offered me a sip of their mate. I passed a colorful camping van in Lima, with stickers from all over Argentina. As I admired it, a man came out – he and his family are Argentinian and traveling through South America. They invited me in to share a mate.
These connections are made possible by a plant connected with ancient souls, with water and a straw, in a cup. I will be forever linked to the Argentinians because of it.
As I ventured into Chile, Paraguay, Uruguay and Brazil, I learned more about the mate culture. In fact, it exists all across South America, though predominantly in Argentina, Chile, Paraguay and Brazil. If you’re familiar with World Cup soccer matches, you understand the passion people feel for their local team. Yerba mate enthusiasts have a similar level of passion about this drink! In Argentina, each person I spoke to insisted that their brand of yerba is thebest in the country. In Uruguay I was informed that Argentinians know nothing about mate and get the preparation of it all wrong. The Yerba in Uruguay is ground more finely, and they use hotter water to drink it. I found myself mildly insulted having spent four months in my beloved Argentina. That said, I liked the taste of the Uruguayan mate, perhaps better than the Argentinian one, though it’s more difficult to prepare. In Brazil, they drink “chimarrao.” It’s in powder form. I found it too high maintenance to make and didn’t like the taste.
At the end of the day, though, only the Argentinians share their mate with strangers, who become instant friends. I seek them out anyplace I am, always ready to share a straw and a conversation.
Thank you Heather for this wonderful glimpse of the Yerba Mate culture of Argentina. Food and drink are such wonderful ways to get to know strangers – people love to connect over a meal or even a drink and strong bonds are often formed at the table.
After more than 20 years in Corporate America, Heather Markel left her stable job to follow her love of world travel and meeting people. She recently created The Inspired Nomads, a video series about people who are mid career and choose to leave stability to follow their dreams, hoping to inspire others to pursue their passion.
{Words and photos by Heather Markel; Website: Heather Begins; all images are subject to copyright and property of Heather Markel and may not be re-used, shared, copied or reprinted without her express written consent}
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