Japan is a unique country with what seems like the perfect mix of culture, history, ancient traditions and spirituality as well as modern comforts and cutting-edge technology. You can almost see the old and the new living side-by-side in Japan in perfect harmony – or wa – as it is known in Japan. Visiting Japan’s holiest mountain, Mount Koyasan is an experience unlike any other.

The strong aroma of incense swirls around the Ho-join temple creating drifting clouds in the chilly mountain air. A Buddhist service is held early every morning at the temples. At exactly 6.30am the monastery’s head monk enters in flowing black robes and kneels on a large padded cushion where he brushes a gong three times. Calming vibrations chime throughout the temple marking the beginning of the prayer ceremony. Soothing meditative murmuring can be heard from the priests as they chant Buddhist sutras in the main temple hall. Depending on the temple, the ceremony may start at around 6:00 am. Again the head monk rings the gong three times signifying the end of the morning ritual.

The Ho-join temple is only one of the fifty two monasteries on Japan’s Mount Koya, known as one of the holiest mountains in Japan. The mountain at 800 meters sits in a basic surrounded by eight peaks realign about 1000 meters. Japanese worshipers believe the mountain is sacred because the eight peaks resemble the eight petals of the lotus flower signifying purity and rebirth.

Mount Koya’s spiritual significance 

Mount Koya is the center of Shingon Buddhism, an important Buddhist sect which was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), one of Japan’s most significant religious figures. It is said that priest Kukai was instrumental in building monasteries on the mountain. Kobo Daishi is known for his study and practice of Esoteric Buddhism. The monastery at Mount Koya is the headquarters of the Koyasan sect of Shingon Buddhism, a faith with a wide following throughout Japan. Situated on a small plain at the top of Mount Koya is the sacred area known as the Danjo Garan, a complex of temples, halls, pagodas and Buddhist statuary that welcome visitors to this serene and hallowed place. Kukai was a very revered scholar and spiritual leader during his time. It is said that he passed away during meditation and attained nirvana. Hence he is still considered to be alive in Mount Koya. Many monks and priests follow in his footsteps with the hopes of also attaining nirvana. There typically is an entrance fee for each of the temples and participation in some ceremonies also requires an additional fee.Towards the end of the village, there is a cemetery surrounded by a thick grove of massive cedars trees. The area is known as Okunoin, or the Inner Sanctuary, and is by far the most beautiful areas around Mount Koyasan. The cemetery is about two kilometers long and houses a mausolea of over 200,000 tombstones, including that of the samurai ruler Toyotomi Hideyoshi, memorials to the spirits of soldiers killed in the Pacific War, some political figures, children and even pets. Some of the little human statues wear bibs, others tiny hats.

To be buried here in the area where Koby Daishi is buried is symbolic to attaining nirvana just like him. Koyasan village is also one of the best places to experience an overnight stay at a temple lodging where you can get to experience a monk’s lifestyle, cuisine and also get to attend the morning prayers. Around fifty temples offer this service to both pilgrims and visitors. The peaceful vibes of the village is reflective of life on Mount Koya which is considered one of Japan’s holiest mountains.

Getting to Koyasan

The easiest way to get to Koyasan is from Osaka. The Nankai Railway’s ordinary express (kyuko) Koya Line trains depart from Osaka’s Namba Station every half-hour or hour bound for Gokurakubashi, and the trip south takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. After arriving at the last stop, Gokurakubashi, you continue your trip to the top of Mount Koya via a 5-minute ride in a cable car. Outside the cable car station, you board a bus that travels 2km (1 1/4 miles) along a narrow, winding road to the village of Koyasan and then continues along the main street all the way through town to the Okunoin-guchi and Okunoin-mae bus stops, the location of Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum. The bus passes almost all the sights along the way, as well as most temples that accommodate visitors and the Koyasan Tourist Association’s main office.

Buses depart every 30 or 40 minutes between 6:30am to 7pm and takes about 20 minutes to reach Okunion-mae. Otherwise, once you’re settled in at your temple accommodations, you can probably walk to Okunoin cemetery.

Experiencing Mount Koyasan

An overnight stay in one of the temples of Mount Koyasan is a great way to slow down and really experience the spiritual aspect of the place, Buddhist religion and Japan’s holiest mountain. The temple prayer ceremonies and general vibe of the place is best enjoyed by those who don’t have to rush back to Osaka the same day. So do yourself a favor and book ahead via the official Shukubo Koyasan website for at least an overnight stay at Mount Koyasan, Japan’s holiest mountain.

Apart from just soaking in all the culture and spirituality that is present in Mount Koyasan, there are also specific rituals that one can participate in. Every morning, monks in yellow robes prepare a meal of rice and vegetables known as Shojingu to serve to Kukai. You can see them walk past holding large wooden boxes that carry Kukai’s meal. In some temples, morning meditation and prayers are also open to the public as well as private meditation guidance is available by appointment and for a fee. You can even participate in ‘sutra’ copying – a ritual of transcribing 262 words of Hanya Shinkyo scripture.

Regardless of what you choose to participate in at Mount Koyasan, your visit is bound to be something unlike any other experience. Go with an open mind, a clear heart willing to receive and make the best of your time on Japan’s holiest mountain.

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